Fall in love with Florida's Nature Coast

Keaton Beach, Perry, and Steinhatchee - February 2024

When I heard the moniker "Florida's Nature Coast", I figured that was a nice way to say there's nothing really here. No big city, no theme parks, no white sand beaches. And, to that extent I was right. There was no big city, just small towns with longtime residents who warmly welcomed the off-season visitor. No theme parks, just an abundance of nature. No white sand beaches (though there are quite a few nice beaches), but in its place was unfettered access to the gulf - whether as a fisherman or in our case, amateur inflatable mariners.

On the drive in - through Perry and into Keaton Beach and later on to Steinhatchee - you are not blown away by a typical seasonal resort town. Instead a working-class town, heavily dependent on fishing, logging, and, until recently, the paper mill. With the mill closed there is an almost imperceptible sense of fear in the voices. What comes next? And it's in that spirit that I believe the hospitality of the region evolved. Never knowing if it was going to be a good season or not, never knowing is this year will turn out or if a storm will take it all away. Almost a zen sense of "it'll all work out" and that permeates the people there. A meaningful laissez-faire that mimics the stereotypical Southern hospitality trope.

Our spot for the 2 weeks we were there was a beautiful mistake. Names were too similar and my rush to book resulted in a stop about 2 hours from where I intended. I'm so glad to have made that mistake. Gulf Front RV Park was perfect for our stay. Simple, small and we could launch our kayaks right there. Friendly owners threw us all a fish fry (fresh from the gulf) to welcome us. And sweet neighbors from MI with whom Sabrina still keeps in touch. Every sunset was an eagerly anticipated event with all activity halting.

I've gone too long now without talking about food. I was pleasantly surprised by the food scene, I was expecting fresh seafood but the atmosphere and the respectful use of kitch in the dining rooms, bars, and docks were surprising. Like much of the area, there was more than what was on the surface. Some favorites:

Nowhere Grille - open-air bar and grill with character to spare - like Mad Max opened Cheers

Kathi's Krab Shack - a family-owned joint with 40 years of history. Nothing truly notable except the service was a delight

Heming’s Way 1st & 8th Coffee & Tacos - trendy food truck park serving some great coffee drinks and incredible tacos and burritos

Skullyz BBQ - a BBQ truck in the front yard of a house on 12th St. with probably the best beans I've ever tasted

Now there are the "touristy" spots, and local gems - and of course, we checked some of those out too.

Manatee State Park - we wanted to start this adventure with something on the bucket list, and thus Sabrina met her first manatee. In the winter, manatees cruise in from the coast for warmer inland waters fed by springs. This was a nicely kept state park with kayaks and canoes for rent, plenty of picnic space, and dedicated areas for aspiring scuba divers looking for a manatee face-to-face. We opted for the kayak and had a wonderful time exploring inlets into the trees, excitedly pointing out turtles (every time and there were a lot of turtles - never got old) and going ga-ga for the manatees. Three, in fact, all congregating at the boat launch. They were mere feet from the protected area but chose to linger for hours in an area where visitors would float above them and risk their phones for an underwater pic. Almost like they found us as charming and adorable as we did them.

Hagen's Cove - located in the Big Bend WMA and listed as a "Great Florida Birding Trail", we naturally had to take the admittedly poorly maintained road (gotta love the Bronco confidence we've developed) and see what could be seen. Not many birds despite the aforementioned great opportunity, however, what we did find was a pristine bit of beach which was perfect. Small, lightly used, dog friendly. We enjoyed a few sunsets here and took both Ted and Ellie for the first dip in the Gulf. Ted was not impressed, Ellie immediately pooped in it which I believe signifies enjoyment. Feces aside, this little strip of paradise is perfect for a BBQ or just some quiet time. We particularly enjoyed watching some amateur kite surfers who chose the area to launch.

The Road to Nowhere - aptly named but felt like an adventure anyway. Taking a long dirt road to an apocalyptically blocked bridge, then climbing the barricade to see the beyond - despite there not being much beyond, it was memorable...for not being so memorable. In this instance, it really was about the journey, not the destination. Plus the company.

Top Moment - we saw there was a kayak launch by the resort office. We inflated our craft and lugged them over (heavy for being full of air). Despite the muddy, murky water and rocks, we launched and figures anything can be cleaned later. This shallow, muddy inlet let our into the gulf proper in no time. We paddled against the tide (both directions it seemed) and watched as fish and horseshoe crabs passed beneath. We got out as far as we were comfortable making it back and watched as the sun met the sea. Cotton candy skies as Sabrina would say. The sunset lasts forever there, and we saw it from the water in silent wonder. A perfect moment in time.

Special Mentions

Keaton Beach Trading Post - pluckly little gift shop for a town with little tourism and fewer residents. Great selection of beach necessities as well as souvenirs. Also plays as community center with pop-up markets and the like. Nicest lady owns it, the spirit of the area wrapped up in grey hair and a smile.

Keaton Beach Bums - the best and only gas station in Keaton Beach that also has groceries, laundry, bait and tackle, pizza, and fried chicken that came in clutch ( and we pretty good). Super nice people taking care of the community and visitors alike.